Have you ever heard of the North Shore? Well, get ready for a surprise as the Hoa Binh Lake has a northern shore which is rarely visited by the hoards of backpackers, bikers and young Vietnamese ‘dan phuot’ you tend to see on its southern shore. There are quiet, winding roads that skirt the lake and a whole host of friendly locals. There are a few great homestays in the area, too. It’s about time you tried it out!
As the map below shows, you have a choice of taking an out and back or combining the two out and backs to make a loop. The only issue with this is that you need to organize a boat across Hoa Binh Lake, which could be hit or miss and can sometimes be expensive. With a larger group of 6-8 people, price becomes less of an issue but you still need to find a reliable captain. We know people in the area and can usually help with that. Get in touch.
There are 3 main routes, all of which start off on the CT 08, the main highway out of Hanoi towards Hoa Lac. We do not suggest taking the AH13/Highway 6 out of Hanoi because it is very busy and there is a lot of construction going on—it really isn’t the best start to a trip.
This route will take you on the CT08 all the way to Ky Son, where you hit the AH13. Don’t worry, at this point the AH13 is a fast, wide road that is not too stressful to drive on. From here you head straight for Hoa Binh City.
If you like, you can spend time on the Hoa Binh Dam: it is worth a visit, especially if the overflow gates are open. There is a museum there, too.
NOTE: There is a route (marked in light pink) that is another ‘long cut’. If you wanted to head North from Ky Son and take the small ferry across the Black River, you would very easily get to the QL70B. From there, you could wind your way through the small unnamed roads to get out to the DT433 at Da Bac and then continue on your way. If you plan to take this route, just remember to ask for directions to Da Bac and people will usually guide you the right way.
Now, just follow the DT433 until you get to Da Bac. This is where you decide if you want to turn off to take the lake side road. If you are planning to visit Sac Luyen homestay, Sanh Thuan Homestay or Huu Thao homestay then this is your turn off.
Alternatively, you continue on the DT433 until you get to Cao Son. This will be the turn off you take if you are going to visit Thanh Trung Homestay or Xuan Lan Homestay in Xom Sung (Sung Village). Also, you can take this route if you are heading towards Da Bia and the Lake View Homestay or Ngoc Nhem Homestay.
As we said, you can take the earlier turn off at Da Bac to get to all of these places, which means you take the less direct and more scenic route. It is a good choice if you have enough time.
Around 25km out of Hanoi you may see signs for Chua Thay and notice the limestone outcrops on both sides of the highway. This point is Quoc Oai and you can take a left here on to the TL 412B. Note: you need to turn right of the highway and then pass over the highway on a bridge to Quoc Oai. This is a well-known short cut that will se you out to the AH13 just short of Xuan Mai. This route can be flooded in the rainy season (very heavy rain only) so just check with us first.
You then continue on AH13, which at this point is easy enough to drive on as it is wide and the traffic is a little lighter, until you get to the Toll Gate around 8km further on.
Here you can decide if you would like to turn left onto the ATK road, which is lovely stretch of quite meandering road, or continue full speed on the highway to Hoa Binh. The ATK road will bring you out to the DT12B, which is larger but equally quiet. If you are indeed heading to Hoa Binh, then this would be a ‘long cut’ and you would shoot a little ways past Hoa Binh and have to head back. It is worth it, if you have time.
Now, if you turn left on the DT435, you will head for Cang Thung Nai (Thung Nai Port). You can get boats to the several places on the lake where you can stay such as: Dao Dua (coconut island) or Coi Xay Gio (Windmill Island). It is also possible to get boats to other areas of the lake such as: Mai Chau Hideaway, Lake View Homestay, Da Bia, or even Bai Sang Market, where you can continue a journey to Mai Chai, Moc Chau or beyond. Stopping midway for a swim in the Summer heat is a fantastic idea and you can easily buy refreshments at the port.
So, there you pretty much have it. A few route suggestions and ideas on how to best utilize the northern shore of the Hoa Binh Lake as well as one or two places on the southern side.
There are several places to stay on route, such as Hoa Binh, but we favor the homestays in Da Bac and Hien Luong Is the easiest of these to get to. If you wish to travel a little further then Lakeview Homestay in Da Bia is a great choice. These homestays are part of a community-based tourism project. The local people are encouraged to start up small tourism projects to help make money for themselves and the community. This is the kind of thing RentABikeVN really likes to support.
You could also stay at either Quan Dao Dua or Coi Xay Gio Thung Nai. You can call in advance to book a package that includes accommodation, meals and the ferry across the lake. This is a good option for the less adventurous and those who prefer a crowd as these places get a little busy in the season.
There are more and more places opening up now so you should be spoilt for choice and able to get a place that is relatively peaceful.
Around the area, you can visit a few places such as Thac Bo Pagoda or Thac Bo Cave.
There are trails where you can hike or mountain bike and you can swim in the lake or take a boat trip. Other than this there is not much to do other than investigate ‘homestay life’ and watch the locals do their daily thing. This gives plenty of opportunity for fun interactions with you and old alike. The local children are typically curious and entertaining.
If you visit Sung Village (an ethnic Dao village), you may have the chance to take a hot herbal bath and witness their village shaman in action.
So, what are you waiting for? You have a route map, suggestions of where to stay. Rent A Bike and get out there!
There is now a place called ‘Hoa Binh Water Park’ that is situated on the lake near the Thung Nai Ferry Port. It is only a few hundred metres away but you will need to get a boat there. This is easy enough. It consists of a few inflatable bouncy castle type things and some canoes and floating mats. It is good fun for the kids and anyone who is young at heart.
I would not suggest you travel there specifically to visit the park but if you are passing it is worth stopping off. In the heat of summer, the lake is great.
There is a standard vietnamese restaurant there so you can get food and drinks easily. You can also overnight on the floating restaurant / guesthouse, too.
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Engine Type
air-liquid cooled, twin cylinder, DOHC, boxer engine
Displacement
1255 cc
Bore X Stroke
102.5 mm x 76 mm
Ignition
FI
Fuel System
fuel injection
Compression Ratio
12.5:1
Starter
electric
Gearbox
6-speed
Front Suspension
BMW Motorrad Telelever; stanchion diameter 37 mm
Rear Suspension
single-sided swing arm with BMW Motorrad Paralever
Front Brakes
dual disc brake, floating brake discs, diameter 305 mm, 4-piston radial calipers
Rear Brakes
single disc brake, diameter 276 mm, double-piston floating caliper
Front Tyres
120/70 R19
Rear Tyres
170/60 R17
Wheelbase
1514 mm
Seat Height
850 mm
Ground Clearance
790 mm
Kerb Weight
249 kg
Fuel Capacity
20 litres
Dimensions
2207 mm (L) x 952.5mm (W) x 1430 mm (H)
Engine Type
air cooled, OHC, single cylinder
Displacement
149 cc
Bore X Stroke
57.3 mm x 57.8 mm
Ignition
CDI
Fuel System
20 mm piston valve carburettor
Compression Ratio
9.5:1
Starter
electric with kick starter backup
Gearbox
5-speed
Front Suspension
telescopic fork, 180 mm axle travel
Rear Suspension
single shock swing arm, 150 mm axle travel
Front Brakes
dual piston caliper, 240 mm disc
Rear Brakes
mechanical drum
Front Tyres
90/90 19
Rear Tyres
110/90 17
Wheelbase
1362 mm
Seat Height
825 mm
Ground Clearance
243 mm
Kerb Weight
129 kg
Fuel Capacity
12 litres
Dimensions
2091 mm (L) x 811 mm (W) x 1125 mm (H)
Engine Type
liquid cooled parallel-twin four stroke
Displacement
470 cc
Bore X Stroke
67 mm x 66.8 mm
Ignition
PGMI – FI
Fuel System
fuel injection
Compression Ratio
10.7:1
Starter
electric
Gearbox
6-speed
Front Suspension
41 mm SFF-BP USD Forks
Rear Suspension
Prolink Mono with 5 stage pre load adjuster
Front Brakes
dual 296 mm discs with 4 piston calipers; ABS
Rear Brakes
240 mm disc; ABS
Front Tyres
110/80R19M/C (59H)
Rear Tyres
160/60R17M/C
Wheelbase
1445 mm
Seat Height
830 mm
Ground Clearance
180 mm
Kerb Weight
199 kg
Fuel Capacity
17.7 litres
Dimensions
2,155 mm (L) x 830 mm (W) x 1,410 mm (H)
Engine Type
single cylinder, DOHC, liquid cooled
Displacement
286 cc
Bore X Stroke
76 mm x 63 mm
Ignition
Full Transistor Digital
Fuel System
PGM-FI electronic fuel injection
Compression Ratio
10.7:1
Starter
electric
Gearbox
5-speed
Front Suspension
43 mm telescopic upside down
Rear Suspension
Prolink Mono with 5 stage pre load adjuster
Front Brakes
Rear Brakes
220 mm disc, single piston caliper
Front Tyres
80/100 21
Rear Tyres
120/80 18
Wheelbase
1455 mm
Seat Height
880 mm
Ground Clearance
285 mm
Kerb Weight
142 kg
Fuel Capacity
7.8 litres
Dimensions
2230 mm (L) x 820 mm (W) x 1200 mm (H)