Why the Cao Bang Loop?
Northern Vietnam is a fantastic place for Vietnam motorcycle tour. Many people will have heard of the Ha Giang Loop and make a bee line for this northernmost region. Unfortunately, this has caused the whole place to become over developed and it is no longer the pristine wilderness it once was. Enter, Cao Bang Loop, which (at the time of writing) is still a somewhat quiet and peaceful area, which also has stunning scenery, great diversity of riding and amazing culture.
Yes, you heard it here first, ‘Cao Bang is where the cool kids hang out.’
We think that the best way to see Cao Bang is by motorbike and it is quite easy to make the journey from Hanoi to Ban Gioc Waterfall and back. It is possible to do this in 3 – 4 days but we recommend an easy 6 days to make the loop or even more if you really want to see all that the loop has to offer.
Route Map
Itinerary
Day 1 - Hanoi - Ba Be Lake - 200km / 6-7 hrs
This is your slog day and it involves getting out of Hanoi. You need to head up to Thai Nguyen and then Yen Do. It is only then that you can really turn off the main road and start to get on the smaller roads. From here on there are a few small detours that are easy to find. The road is tarmac, narrow and winding and great fun to drive. Just watch out for the odd truck. The best way to get to Ba Be Lake is past Hua Ma Cave. You will arrive directly in Pac Ngoi Village where there are lots and lots of homestays.
Day 2 - Ba Be Lake - Bao Lac - 180km / 6 hrs
Today is a much nicer day with a lot of great scenery. You head out of the National Park and then cross the suspension bridge past Puong Cave. From there you nee dto go overt several huge mountains and past small towns nestled in the valleys to get up to the Ql34 at Bac Me. This road is good and fast and bit like a speed track and is great to drive. At Ly Bon Bridge you hed for Bao Lac, which is a very small, quiet market town. There are only a few small hotels in this place so try to book ahead.
Day 3 - Bao Lac - Ban Gioc - 165km / 6 hrs
We have another great day today with plenty of small road and villages for your enjoyment. You head out of Bao Lac, past the market, and your first stop is the 14 storey pass. You will skirt the border with China and catch glimpses of the ‘fence’. The road is winding and small and offer som really great views before you head down towards Pac Bo Cave, where Uncle Ho lived for a short time. Near here is a good place to stop for lunch and then move on along the border past Trung Khanh (take a detour to Angel Eye Mountain if you have time) and finally up to Ban Gioc Waterfall.
Day 4 - Ban Gioc - Cao Bang - 110km / 4 hrs
This is quite an easy day, which is probably welcome, and we take the back road along the river and through the hills down to Cao Bang. You will see a few knife making villages along the way and a lot of small blacksmith’s shops on the roadside. A shorter day means that we can spend a little time in Ban Gioc, maybe at the waterfall or Tiger Cave. You could also get to Cao Bang early and have a look around the town.
Day 5 - Cao Bang - Bac Son - 130km / 5 hrs
We follow the main road today down to That Khe and then Bac Son. This takes us through some beautiful countryside and villages and we can see a lot of different things happening such as: drying crops, harvesting lumber, making noodles and more. If the weather is dry there are a couple of smll detours that can be taken, too. However, the highlight is the cave in Binh Gia which is great fun to drive through.
Day 6 - Bac Son - Hanoi - 150km / 5-6 hrs
Our last day and unfortunately one that sees us back on to the main road. We begin by taking the small road through the villages in the Bac Son Valley. We will see plenty of fruit farms and lumber yards as the locals go about their business. After around half way we will get back on to the main road and then speed back to Hanoi. We try to get back early so as to miss the traffic.
FAQ
When is the best time to ride the Cao Bang Loop?
From Oct to February is the best time to ride in the North of Vietnam. The weather is usually quite dry and not too cold, say 12 to 18C, and it can be warmer. Cao Bang is not particularly high so elevation is not an issue in most of the province.
What is the best bike for the Cao Bang Loop?
This really depends on where you intend to go and what routes you intend to take. It is possible to use any bike from an automatic to a manual, from a dirt bike to a road tourer. Obviously, the type of bike you choose will dictate the route you take.
What should I pack for the Cao Bang Loop?
For most of the year you should find that light clothing will be just fine. In Summer, it is extremely hot and humid but you need to cover up from the sun and in Winter it can be quite cold so you will need several layers and waterproofs. Obviously, the more protective gear you have the better.
Is petrol easy to find on the Cao Bang Loop?
Yes, as it is all over Vietnam. This is a country of some 40 million motorbikes and most of them have 4 litre fuel tanks. Petrol stations are everywhere. Fill up once a day and you should be fine.
Are homestays better than hotels?
Generally, speaking we prefer homestays as they are family-run and you get a more authentic experience when staying. However, we suggest that you mix it up between the two because some nights a hotel may be more comfortable and you might want more privacy than is offered in the average homestay. Be flexible and use both as you need.
When is Ban Gioc Waterfall in full flow, at its most impressive?
Generally, speaking this is between July and September because this is when the Summer rains are. However, I have been at the falls in October and seen it in full flow due to recent rain.
Gallery: What it is really like
The Cao Bang Loop will show you the rural Vietnam that has been largely untouched by tourism and you will not see crowds of people in vests and flip flops. There are a few great markets to visit and some of the best riding in the country.
