The Ha Giang Loop done right! Take the overnight bus from Hanoi, collecting your motorcycle in the city of Ha Giang. Ride some of the highest roads in Vietnam, across the Dong Van limestone karst plateau, skirting the Chinese border and up to Lung Cu, Vietnam's northernmost point.
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Day 1: Ha Giang – Tam Son
60 km
3 hours
Dong Van Plateau; Lung Khuy Cave
Our first riding day is not difficult at all and we can take plenty of detours to get on more rugged roads or stop off at viewpoints or sights. We also have time to stop off and chat with the locals and, if lucky, visit any local markets that are being held in the area. We start out on flat terrain but quickly ascend up onto the Ha Giang Plateau. It will be cooler up here. We stay that evening in a local homestay run by the Dao people.
Day 2: Tam Son – Yen Minh
50 km
4 hours
Dong Van back roads; Yen Minh pine forest
This day takes us along the valley floor before ascending into the Yen Minh pine forest. It’s a great feeling to be surrounded by the mountains on either side. We can drive through the forest or take a newly constructed shortcut across quite barren hills. I guess the choice depends on how we are feeling after feasting the evening before. We can stay in a regular hotel or the small group of local homestays that has been developed and we can eat in the homestay or the local market for a bit of colour.
Day 3: Yen Minh – Sung La
70 km
4 hours
Dong Van back roads; sneak over the Chinese border
Today we get off the main route and the tourist trail and head for the border with China. We do not cross as this is dangerous but we skirt along some hilltop paths until we can come down back to the main road. We can take the 9 turn pass and also get off the road a bit more if there is time before getting to our H’Mong run homestay.
Day 4: Sung La — Lung Cu
30 km
2 hours
Hmong King’s Palace; Lung Cu Flag Tower
We pass Sa Phin Market and the H’Mong King’s Palace on route to Lung Cu Flagpole, which is the northernmost point of Vietnam. The road is mountainous and winding but easy to drive. We are also very very close to China again and we have to look out for overzealous border guards. We can get off the main road on the way to Lung Cu where we can climb the flagpole. Again, we stay with local people this time Lo Lo.
Day 5: Lung Cu – Dong Van
30 km
2 hours
Don Cao Fortress
It is about 10km back to the 4C from where we head to Dong Van. This is only a short drive so we have time to spend in Lung Cu, re-visit Sa Phin if it is market day or to see the sights in and around Dong Van. We stay in a hotel here and it is a chance to have a good hot shower and get some clothes washed. We can eat in one of the restaurants in the old market.
Day 6: Dong Van — Meo Vac
50 km
4 hours
Ma Pi Leng Gorge; Nho Que River; small H’Mong tracks
This is either a short hop along the ‘Happiness Highway’ stopping off at some of the many interesting sights such as the Skywalk and the Ma Pi Leng Pass or a longer route through the lesser-used back roads. We stay in a small hamlet of tourist homestays run by the local H’Mong in a community-based tourism project.
Day 7: Meo Vac – Du Gia
100 km
6 hours
Du Gia Valley; Du Gia Waterfall
This is our longest day so we need to be rested and ready to drive. Again, we can choose the easy tarmac route or the extremely technical mountain path route. They really are chalk and cheese. We pass through Mau Due and then on to Du Gia where we stay at a luxurious homestay serving wonderful food. It is an easy day tomorrow so perhaps let your hair down a bit.
Day 8: Du Gia – Ha Giang
80 km
4 hours
Little Ma Pi Leng Canyon
We are under no pressure to make the distance today as Ha Giang is only a short way away. We can choose to lay in, explore the area or get back to Ha Giang and look around there. The first half of the route back is more scenic mountain driving but then we need to get on the main road again so it’s good to just get it done. We can eat in Ha Giang before dropping off our bikes and then getting our bus back to Hanoi.
